This menswear collection is influenced by 1940s army wear, researching volumes and exaggerating proportions. A collection with an understanding of the past, but with its eyes firmly set on the future. With quilting, padding and bonding and an exploration into new techniques in finishing, constructions and fabric combinations, the story is told of the twisted coming of age of a boy proving his masculinity.

Proportions are redefined, allowing the young adult to find comfort in his boyishness. Printed silks on neoprene, soft leathers and coated wools represent confusion on his search for a new masculine identity. Short jackets and wide shorts segment the male form in geometric layers. Archetypal garments are edited – a coat exaggerated in volume, an army bomber exaggerated in it’s shortness.

Colours come in crisp whites and greys, soft skin tones and taupe, deep brown, a touch of blue and pink and a metallic dark bronze in leather. An ever-present use of accessories forces a heightened sense of theatre. A sense of uniformity in colours and silhouettes show an imaginary army of boys, battling for understanding and adulthood.

Photo: Joost Vandebrug